How to Read MOT History Before Buying a Used Car

Where to find it

Enter the registration on the RegPeek homepage. You will see each test date, the result, the recorded mileage and every defect and advisory noted by the tester. The same records are published by DVSA.

1. Follow the mileage line

Plot the readings in your head from the earliest test. Mileage should only ever rise, and roughly in line with the seller's story. A drop, a suspiciously flat year or a sudden jump deserves an explanation — our guide on spotting mileage clocking explains what is a genuine typo and what is not.

2. Look for advisories that repeat

An advisory noted three years running means the owner has been deferring the job. Corrosion advisories on brake pipes, subframes or sills are the ones to take most seriously because they get worse and cost more each year.

3. Check the gaps between tests

A 15-month gap suggests the car sat unused or was off the road, which can bring its own problems. Several gaps, or a long period with no tests, is worth asking about directly.

4. Read the failure pattern, not just the count

• Lights and wipers: cheap, low concern.
• Brakes and tyres: routine wear, but check they were actually replaced.
• Suspension and steering: moderate cost, and often a sign of hard use or poor roads.
• Structural corrosion: the most expensive category and a common reason to walk away.
• Emissions: can indicate an ageing catalyst or a deeper engine issue.

MOT history does not show finance, theft or write-off records. Those come from separate data sources — see what a full car history check shows.

Questions to ask the seller

1. Was the advisory from last year's test dealt with, and do you have the invoice?
2. Why is there a gap between these two tests?
3. Does the current odometer reading match the last recorded figure plus your own use?
4. Do the service records line up with the MOT dates?

Run the registration before you travel. It costs nothing and it has saved a lot of wasted journeys.